Ritual: kanjikomi

The Japanese art of regenerative living

Kanjikomi, or literally, cold prep, allows for a slow and steady ferment. According to koyomi, the traditional Japanese microseasonal calendar, kanjikomi takes place during what I call First Chill (January 5–19) and Deep Chill (January 20 — February 3). Miso, soy sauce, and saké are just a few of the many different types of fermented foods that are prepared throughout the month of January. Preparing during the coldest time of the year ensures that aging, rather than rotting, occurs.

In the case of miso, boiled soy beans are cooled and blended with salt and rice, wheat, or soy bean koji. These three simple ingredients pass through our hands over and over again, until they are well-blended. A reminder that humans are not separate from nature, but are part of it. Our hands become the fourth ingredient to make the miso possible.

The very chilly environment allows the ingredients to quietly mingle. As Winter turns to Spring, the simple ingredients begin melding into one. Slowly but surely the microbes move more actively and by mid-Summer heat, the ferment is at high speed. And with Autumn’s return, little by little the ferment calms. When the miso has returned to a steady state, it is ready to be eaten.

January is usually a quiet time in the snow-blanketed countryside, without much that can be done outside. So it is the perfect time for kanjikomi. Quiet work inside the home is a special ritual that not only reminds us that this coldest time of the year is ephemeral, but also that it allows us to prepare and enjoy foods for the rest of the year. Extra boiled soy beans can be repurposed for other dishes, and any leftover koji and salt makes for shio-koji, an all-star seasoning that ferments quickly (assuming the koji is lively) and can be used for anything from marinades to dressings.

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.:中:.村::桃:.子